So you’ve booked a flight into Puerto Princesa and now you’re wondering: is Puerto Princesa worth visiting on its own, or is it just the airport you pass through on your way to El Nido and Coron? Honestly, I get this question a lot from travelers planning their Palawan trip, and the answer isn’t as simple as everyone online makes it sound.
Here’s the thing: most Palawan itineraries treat Puerto Princesa as a one-night pit stop. Land, see the Underground River, jump on a van north the next morning. And look, if you’re tight on time, that’s a completely valid plan. But if you write off Puerto Princesa entirely, you’re skipping fireflies drifting over a jungle river, a genuinely good food scene, and one of the most underrated island-hopping spots in the whole province.
I’ve spent enough time in the city between tour bookings and airport transfers to have a real opinion on this. So let’s break down what Puerto Princesa actually offers, what it costs, and whether it deserves more than a single overnight stay.
Why Puerto Princesa Gets a Bad Reputation
Puerto Princesa isn’t postcard-pretty in the way El Nido’s lagoons are. It’s a working city, the capital of Palawan, with jeepneys, tricycles, and a real downtown grid. First-time visitors sometimes step off the plane expecting turquoise water at the airport and instead find traffic and strip malls. That mismatch is where the “skip it” advice comes from.
But that’s judging a city for not being a beach resort. Puerto Princesa was never trying to be El Nido. It’s a launchpad for one of the most unique natural attractions in the Philippines, and once you get 20-30 minutes outside the city center, the landscape changes fast: rice paddies, mangrove rivers, limestone hills. We once had a guest tell us she almost cancelled her Puerto Princesa night entirely, then ended up saying the firefly tour was the highlight of her whole Palawan trip. That happens more than you’d think.
Insider tip: Don’t judge the city from the airport road. Ask your driver to take the route past Iwahig or toward Ugong Rock if you have even an hour to spare between flights. It’s a completely different picture.
The Underground River (Yes, It’s Still the Main Event)
You can’t talk about whether Puerto Princesa is worth visiting without starting here. The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, better known as the Underground River, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the few places on earth where you can boat through a navigable underground river system, roughly 8.2 kilometers long, though tourists only cruise about 1.5 kilometers of it.
Getting there means a 1.5 to 2-hour van ride to Sabang, then a short boat crossing to the cave mouth. As of 2026, budget around ₱1,085 per person for a DIY visit (permit, audio guide, environmental fee, and the roundtrip boat ride), or roughly ₱2,400 per person if you book a shared tour that includes transfers and lunch. Private tours run higher, from about ₱2,360 to ₱9,065 per person depending on group size.
Insider tip: Permits are capped daily, especially during peak season from April to May. Don’t wing it. Secure your slot at least a day ahead, and go early, because the lighting inside the cave (bats, stalactites, the works) is genuinely better before the tour buses show up around 10am.
Honda Bay: The Island Hopping Everyone Forgets About
This is the part most people skip, and honestly, that’s a mistake. Honda Bay sits just 30-40 minutes from the city and gives you island hopping that rivals what you’ll pay double for up north. You’ll typically visit 3-4 islands in a day, with Starfish Island, Luli Island, and Cowrie Island as the regulars.
| Honda Bay Stop | What You’ll Do | Typical Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Starfish Island | Shallow water, actual starfish sightings | Included in tour |
| Luli Island | Sandbar that appears/disappears with tide | Included in tour |
| Cowrie Island | Best for snorkeling, small entrance fee | ₱100 island fee |
| Boat tour package | Full-day, 3-4 islands, lunch | ₱1,200-₱1,800/pax |
Most boat operators only ask for a ₱400 deposit per person to lock in your slot, with the balance settled on pickup day. That’s a small commitment for a full day out.
Insider tip: Go on a weekday if your schedule allows. Honda Bay gets crowded with domestic tour groups on weekends, and the sandbar at Luli Island genuinely photographs better with fewer footprints on it.
Ugong Rock: Caving and a Zipline You Didn’t Expect
Ugong Rock is a 75-foot limestone formation about 45 minutes from the city, near Sabang, so it pairs naturally with an Underground River day. You climb up through a cave system (spelunking, basically) and come out at the top with a view over the surrounding forest. Then, if you’re up for it, you zipline back down.
Pricing is broken out by activity: caving runs around ₱200, the seated zipline is about ₱250, and if you want to go “Superman style” (face down, arms out), that’s closer to ₱350. It’s a fun add-on for families or anyone who wants something more active than a boat tour.
Insider tip: Do Ugong Rock before the Underground River, not after. You’ll be muddy and sweaty from the cave climb, and the boat ride afterward is a nice cooldown.
Iwahig Firefly Watching: The Most Underrated Thing to Do at Night
Here’s what actually convinced me Puerto Princesa deserves more than one night: the Iwahig firefly tour. You paddle a small boat through mangroves along the Iwahig River after dark, and the trees genuinely light up with thousands of synchronized fireflies. No motor, no chatter, just the paddle dipping in the water and this quiet glow all around you. It sounds like a tourist gimmick until you’re actually out there.
The Iwahig Community Ecotourism Association runs tours from 6pm onward, and a boat (good for about 3 people) costs roughly ₱600. Some operators bundle it with dinner for a higher rate. Either way, it’s one of the cheapest unforgettable experiences you’ll have in Palawan. We’ve written a full breakdown in our Iwahig firefly watching guide if you want the details on timing it around the moon phase.
Insider tip: Book the tour on a night close to the new moon. A bright moon washes out the firefly glow, and guides will tell you the same thing if you ask them directly.
Where to Eat: Puerto Princesa’s Food Scene Is Better Than You Think
This is the part people never mention, and it’s honestly one of my favorite things about the city. Kalui Restaurant (locally just called “Ka Lui”) is the famous one, a shoes-off, set-menu seafood spot that’s been running for decades, with dinner running around ₱600-₱900 per person. Kinabuchs Grill and Bar is the local favorite for grilled seafood and cold beer after a long tour day. And if you’re heading out toward Sabang, Baker’s Hill is worth a stop for the ube pandesal and the hilltop views.
Street food along Rizal Avenue is also worth trying if you want something cheap and fast between activities. Grilled tuna belly, halo-halo, the works, usually under ₱150 a plate.
How Many Days Do You Actually Need?
For the Underground River alone, one full day is enough. But if you want Honda Bay, Ugong Rock, and the firefly tour too, you’re realistically looking at 2-3 days in Puerto Princesa before heading north to El Nido or Coron. We break this down in more detail in our 7-day Palawan itinerary, which slots Puerto Princesa in as the opening leg before the island-hopping destinations.
Insider tip: If your flight lands in the afternoon, don’t try to squeeze the Underground River in that same day. Save it for the next morning when you’re not racing daylight, and use the arrival evening for the firefly tour instead since it happens after dark anyway.
Getting There and Getting Around
Puerto Princesa International Airport receives regular flights from Manila and Cebu via Cebu Pacific and AirSWIFT, with flight times around 1 hour 15 minutes from Manila. Once you land, tricycles and vans are everywhere for getting around the city, and most tour operators (CMT included) offer hotel pickup as part of the package.
Best Time to Visit Puerto Princesa
Peak season runs November to May, same as the rest of Palawan, with the driest, calmest weather for boat tours. June through October is off-season with more rain, which can affect Underground River access if water levels rise. Check the PAGASA weather bureau before you finalize dates if you’re traveling during the rainy months. For a fuller seasonal breakdown across the whole province, see our best time to visit Palawan guide.
What Does It Actually Cost?
Here’s a rough daily budget if you’re spending 2 days in Puerto Princesa before heading north:
| Expense | Budget Estimate (per person/day) |
|---|---|
| Accommodation (mid-range) | ₱1,200-₱2,500 |
| Underground River tour | ₱1,085-₱2,400 |
| Honda Bay tour | ₱1,200-₱1,800 |
| Food (3 meals) | ₱600-₱1,000 |
| Local transport | ₱200-₱400 |
For a full province-wide breakdown, check our Palawan trip cost guide and is Palawan expensive post, which compares Puerto Princesa costs against El Nido and Coron.
So, Is Puerto Princesa Worth Visiting?
Yes, and honestly, more than most itineraries give it credit for. Skip it entirely and you’ll still have a great Palawan trip. But add even one extra night, and you get the Underground River, a genuinely magical firefly tour, island hopping that doesn’t feel touristy yet, and food that’s better than the transit-stop reputation suggests. It’s not competing with El Nido’s lagoons or Coron’s wrecks. It doesn’t need to. It’s doing its own thing, and that thing is worth two days of your trip.
If you’re planning the rest of your Palawan route after Puerto Princesa, our team at CMT can help you line up transfers and tours north toward El Nido so you’re not wasting time figuring out logistics on your own.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Puerto Princesa worth visiting or should I skip straight to El Nido?
It’s worth at least one full day for the Underground River, and ideally 2-3 days if you want Honda Bay and the Iwahig firefly tour too. Skipping it entirely means missing experiences you won’t find in El Nido or Coron.
How many days do you need in Puerto Princesa?
One day covers the Underground River. Two to three days lets you add Honda Bay island hopping, Ugong Rock, and the firefly watching tour without rushing.
Is the Puerto Princesa Underground River worth the hype?
Yes. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the only navigable underground river systems open to tourists in the world. Just book your permit in advance, especially in peak season.
What’s the best time to visit Puerto Princesa?
November to May is peak season with the driest weather. June to October is off-season, cheaper but with more rain that can occasionally affect river tours.
Can I do Puerto Princesa as a day trip from El Nido?
Not realistically. The drive between El Nido and Puerto Princesa takes 5-6 hours one way, so it’s better treated as its own stop at the start or end of your Palawan trip rather than a day trip.
Is Puerto Princesa safe for tourists?
Yes, it’s generally considered one of the safer cities in the Philippines for tourists, with a visible tourism police presence around major attractions. Normal travel precautions apply, same as anywhere.
What should I not miss in Puerto Princesa besides the Underground River?
The Iwahig firefly watching tour is the most underrated activity in the city. Honda Bay island hopping and Ugong Rock’s caving and zipline are close seconds if you have extra days.
Ready to plan the rest of your Palawan trip? Check out our El Nido island hopping tours and let CMT Ticketing and Services handle your transfers, tours, and bookings from Puerto Princesa all the way north. Message us on Facebook for the best price on your dates.